A card game
is any game using playing cards, either traditional
or game-specific.
This article will describe the general
mechanics of card games: that is, those rules which
are so widely known that they are often omitted in
rules of card games, because the author assumes that
"everyone" knows them.
The statements given here are general
ones. There are countless exceptions to them. Indeed,
it would be possible to suffix almost every statement
in this section with the words "an exception is provided
by the game of such-and-such". They should therefore
not be taken as rules; rather they should be used
as default rules if you are trying to play a game
from an incomplete set of rules which omits the general
mechanics.
Seating of players
When a card game is played, the players
arrange themselves in a circle around a horizontal
surface on which the cards will be played. This surface
is usually a table, although any flat surface can
be used. The players face inwards, and are approximately
evenly spaced (so that they cannot see each other's
hand of cards).
The pack or deck
A card game is played with a pack
of cards intended for that game. The pack consists
of a fixed number of pieces of printed cardboard known
as cards. The cards in a pack are identical
in size and shape. Each card has two sides, the face
and the back. The backs of the cards in a pack
are indistinguishable. The faces of the cards in a
pack may all be unique, or may include duplicates,
depending on the game. In either case, any card is
readily identifiable by its face.
The set of cards that make up the
pack will be known to all of the players using that
pack.
Pack is British English; deck
is U.S. English. They mean the same thing.
However, there are some card games
that require multiple decks. In this scenario, a "deck"
refers to a set of 52 cards or a single deck, while
a "pack" refers to the collection of "decks" as a
whole.
The deal
Dealing is done either clockwise
or counterclockwise. If this is omitted from the rules,
then it should be assumed to be:
- clockwise for games from North America, North
and West Europe and Russia;
- counterclockwise for South and East Europe and
Asia, also for Swiss games and all Tarot games.
A player is chosen to deal. That
person takes all of the cards in the pack, stacks
them together so that they are all the same way up
and the same way round, and shuffles them. There are
various techniques of shuffling, all intended to put
the cards into a random order. During the shuffle,
dealer holds the cards so that she and the other players
cannot see any of their faces.
Shuffling should continue until the
chance of a card remaining next to the one that was
originally next to is small. In practice, many dealers
do not shuffle for long enough to achieve this.
After the shuffle, the dealer offers
the deck to another player to cut the deck.
If the deal is clockwise, this is the player on her
right; if counter-clockwise, it is the player on her
left. The invitation to cut is made by placing the
pack, face downward, on the table near the player
who is to cut: who then lifts the upper portion of
the pack clear of the lower portion and places it
alongside. The formerly lower portion is then replaced
on top of the formerly upper portion.
The dealer then deals the
cards. This is done by dealer holding the pack, face-down,
in one hand, and removing cards from the top of it
with her other hand to distribute to the players,
placing them face-down on the table in front of the
players to whom they are dealt. The rules of the game
will specify the details of the deal. It normally
starts with the players next to the dealer in the
direction of play (left in a clockwise game; right
in an anticlockwise one), and continues in the same
direction around the table. The cards may be dealt
one at a time, or in groups. Unless the rules specify
otherwise, assume that the cards are dealt one at
a time. Unless the rules specify otherwise, assume
that all the cards are dealt out; but in many games,
some remain undealt, and are left face down in the
middle of the table, forming the talon, skat, or stock.
The player who received the first card from the deal
may be known as eldest hand, or as forehand.
The set of cards dealt to a player
is known as his or her hand.
Throughout the shuffle, cut, and
deal, the dealer should arrange that the players are
unable to see the faces of any of the cards. The players
should not try to see any of the faces. Should a card
accidentally become exposed (visible to all), then
normally any player can demand a redeal - that is,
all the cards are gathered up, and the shuffle, cut
and deal are repeated. Should a player accidentally
see a card (other than one dealt to herself) she should
admit this.
It is dishonest to try to see cards
as they are dealt, or to take advantage of having
seen a card accidentally.
When the deal is complete, all players
pick up their cards and hold them in such a way that
the faces can be seen by the holder of the cards but
not the other players. It is helpful to fan one's
cards out so that (if they have corner indices) all
their values can be seen at once. In most games it
is also useful to sort one's hand, rearranging the
cards in a way appropriate to the game. For example
in a trick taking game it is easier to have all one's
cards of the same suit together, whereas in a rummy
game one might sort them by rank or by potential combinations.
The rules
A new card game starts in a small
way, either as someone's invention, or as a modification
of an existing game. Those playing it may agree to
change the rules as they wish. The rules that they
agree on become the "house rules" under which they
play the game. A set of house rules may be accepted
as valid by a group of players wherever they play.
It may also be accepted as governing all play within
a particular house, or café, or club.
When a game becomes sufficiently
popular, so that people often play it with strangers,
there is a need for a generally accepted set of rules.
This is often met by a particular set of house rules
becoming generally recognised. For example, when whist
became popular in 18th-century England, players in
the Portland Club agreed on a set of house rules for
use on its premises. Players in some other clubs then
agreed to follow the "Portland Club" rules, rather
than go to the trouble of codifying and printing their
own sets of rules. The Portland Club rules eventually
became generally accepted throughout England.
There is nothing "official" about
this process. If you decide to play whist seriously,
it would be sensible to learn the Portland Club rules,
so that you can play with other people who already
know these rules. But if you only play whist with
your family, you are likely to ignore these rules,
and just use what rules you choose. And if you play
whist seriously with a group of friends, you are still
perfectly free to devise your own set of rules, should
you want to.
It is sometimes said that the "official"
or "correct" sets of rules governing a card game are
those "in Hoyle". Edmond Hoyle was an 18th-century
Englishman who published a number of books about card
games. His books were popular, especially his treatise
on how to become a good whist player. After (and even
before) his death, many publishers have taken advantage
of his popularity by placing his name on their books
of rules. The presence of his name on a rule book
has no significance at all. The rules given in the
book may be no more than the opinion of the author.
If there is a sense in which a card
game can have an "official" set of rules, it is when
that card game has an "official" governing body. For
example, the rules of tournament bridge are governed
by the World Bridge Federation, and by local bodies
in various countries such as the ACBL in the USA,
and the EBU in England. The rules of skat in Germany
are governed by the Deutsche Skatverband which publishes
the Skatordnung. The rules of French tarot
are governed by the Fédération Française de Tarot.
But there is no compulsion to follow the rules put
out by these organisations. If you and your friends
decide to play a game by a set of rules unknown to
the game's official body, you are doing nothing illegal.
Many widely-played card games have
no official regulating body. An example is Canasta.
Rule infractions
An infraction is any action which
is against the rules of the game, such as playing
a card when it is not one's turn to play and the accidental
exposure of a card.
In many official sets of rules for
card games, the rules specifying the penalties for
various infractions occupy more pages than the rules
specifying how to play correctly. This is tedious,
but necessary for games that are played seriously.
Players who intend to play a card game at a high level
generally ensure before beginning that all agree on
the penalties to be used. When playing privately,
this will normally be a question of agreeing house
rules. In a tournament there will probably be a tournament
director who will enforce the rules when required
and arbitrate in cases of doubt.
If a player breaks the rules of a
game deliberately, this is cheating. Most card players
would refuse to play cards with a known cheat. The
rest of this section is therefore about accidental
infractions, caused by ignorance, clumsiness, inattention,
etc.
As the same game is played repeatedly
among a group of players, precedents build up about
how a particular infraction of the rules should be
handled. E.G. "Sheila just led a card when it wasn't
her turn. Last week when Jo did that, we agreed ...
etc.". Sets of such precedents tend to become established
among groups of players, and to be regarded as part
of the house rules. Sets of house rules become formalised,
as described in the previous section. Therefore, for
some games, there is a "proper" way of handling infractions
of the rules. But for many games, without governing
bodies, there is no standard way of handling infractions.
In many circumstances, there is no
need for special rules dealing with what happens after
an infraction. As a general principle, the person
who broke a rule should not benefit by it, and the
other players should not lose by it. An exception
to this may be made in games with fixed partnerships,
in which it may be felt that the partner(s) of the
person who broke a rule should also not benefit. The
penalty for an accidental infraction should be as
mild as reasonable, consistent with there being no
possible benefit to the person responsible.
Types of card games
Trick-taking games
- 500
- Bridge
- Euchre
- Hearts
- Pinochle
- Piquet
- Spades
- Whist
- Wizard
- list of trick-taking games
Rummy-style games
- 500 Rum
- Canasta
- Concentration
- Durak
- Five Crowns
- Gin rummy
- Go Fish
- Haihowak
- Happy Families
- Jolly
- Kemps
- Robbers' rummy
- Shanghai rum
- Spoons
- Tri
- Wyatt Earp
Casino or gambling card games
- Baccarat
- Bingo
- Blackjack
- Blind Hookey
- Bouré
- Cribbage
- Poker
- Primero
- Red dog
- Thirty-one
- Three card brag
Solitaire (or Patience) games
- Calculation
- Concentration
- FreeCell
- Klondike
- Russian Bank
- Solitaire Showdown
Shedding games
- Bartok / Bartog
- California Speed
- Chase the Ace
- Crazy Eights
- (Cambridge) Mao
- Old Maid
- President
- Shichi Narabe
- Shithead
- Spit / Speed
- Spite and Malice
- UNO
Accumulating games
- Beggar-My-Neighbour
- Cassino
- Egyptian Ratscrew
- Seven Spades
- Slapjack
- Snap
- Top Trumps
- War
Multi-genre games
Collectible card games (CCG's)
- List of collectible card games
- Magic: The Gathering
- Pokémon
- Yu-Gi-Oh! Trading Card Game
Other card games
- Blitz
- Bohnanza
- Chez Geek
- Chrononauts
- Flinch
- Fluxx
- GOLF
- Gother Than Thou
- Grass
- Hanafuda
- Karuta
- Lucky Seven
- Mille Bournes
- Munchkin
- Numero
- Pens
- Pit
- ROOK
- Set
- LeCardo
Fictional card games
- Cripple Mr. Onion - from the Discworld book series
- Diamondback - from the Cerebus comics
- Double Fanucci - from the Zork series
- Dragon Poker - from the MythAdventures novels
- Fizzbin - from the original Star Trek
- Pyramid - from the Battlestar Galactica series
- Tall Card - from the Firefly television series